Almost 3 months

Tomorrow I'll leave for Gyeongju, the 'museum without walls' city in Korea. I'm going to the ETA fall conference, so I'll get to see all the other ETA's again, most for the first time since we left Seoul and went to our own little corners of Korea. So next week I should have some exciting pictures, stories, etc.

I'm excited. This also means that I've been in Korea for nearly 3 months. Wow, time has flown by. I'm definitely feeling somewhere in between the US and Korea. I could go back and see friends and family and I think it would feel like the last time I talked to some of them was yesterday. But I feel adjusted to parts of Korean life, like the food, crazy middle school students, unexpected English phrases from anyone, and in general just not knowing what will happen next.

Homestay Pictures

Here are some photos from my homestay experience in Gyeryong. The first one is me with my first host family at a temple in Gyeryong-san, a famous mountain in Korea. I swear they were happy to be there with me.

Saw Yong and Chun Yong actually looking happy.

My permanent homestay family and I at a cultural musuem on the monday of the Chusok holiday weekend, minus my homestay sister. She studied all day. She's only in the first grade of middle school, and the midterm she wanted to study for wasn't for another 3 weeks. That's just a small example of how intense education is in Korea, and why I'm really happy I didn't grow up having to go to Korean schools. From L - R: my host brother Ji Hyun, me, host mom, and host father

The two cousins, Ji Hee and Ji Hay looking cute as ever during Chusok

Cousin always looking cute

Hotel California or Tom's Apartment

Last week I went out to dinner thinking it would be like any dinner other I go to with my host parents - I meet some of their friends, we speak some broken English, I try a few Korean phrases, and then I say it was so nice to meet you at the end. But this time it was just my host mom and four of her girlfriends, and during dinner they asked me if I had anything else to do that night because they wanted to go to karaoke with me. After dinner I went to karaoke with them, and singing "hotel california" wasn't enough, they wanted to dance the whole time. So we danced and sang. Luckily two of the husbands came after about 20 minutes so I had some guys to hang out with. But imagine singing and dancing with some middle aged Korean women who you don't really know that well and can't really have a conversation with. At times, a little awkward. But I was thinking if it was awkward for me, maybe it was awkward for them too. Maybe they were doing it because they wanted me to have fun, and that's what young Korean adults do. So if that was the case, I did appreciate. Among other things, it was a good bonding experience... At least now my host mom got her wish and got to see me dance.

Last weekend I went to Cheongju and saw Tom again, and we also met up with Forest and Annie for some night life fun. Sat night = So much fun. It's just really nice to be able to relax and freely communicate with friends, and not have to worry about how fast I'm talking.

Tom is an English teacher in Korea with another program, and he gets his own apartment instead of a homestay. Sure, there are pros and cons to both, but right now I liking that fact that I have a homestay. It's always fun to mess with little siblings. And my host mom is such a good cook. Tom and I also played basketball saturday afternoon at a university near his apartment. I hadn't really played a real game since Chuncheon (over a month!) It was a perfect day for ball, and I found some Koreans who are good at basketball.

Next weekend we have an ETA conference, so all of us English teachers will get together and marvel at how fast time has flown (we all left for our placements almost a month and a half ago!) I only got to know the other ETA's for six weeks, but I do miss them (most of them).

Chusok Wrap up

I experienced one of the most important Korean holidays last weekend with my host family. During Chusok, Koreans go to visit their family and pay tribute to their deceased ancestors. Food is prepared and blessed for the ancestors and then laid out on the table. When I heard things about ancestor worship rituals, and practically of all Korea participates in this holiday, I didn't know what to expect.

Luckily since my host dad is the oldest brother the family came to his house. I think since I am living with the family they did something a little different this year and didn't travel... but I'm not sure. Or maybe since they now have three apartments they could fit everyone in Gyeryong. Friday night I met one of my host father's younger brothers. He's a general surgeon and lives in Gongju, so anytime I visit Sarah I'll have a place to stay. He also said he likes to drink every night. Not sure if that was to impress me, or to worry me about him being a surgeon.

My host family's cousins were soooo cute. Little kids running around being little kids. Using the few words of english they knew with me. Running by my room screaming "BEEEEN! SO NICE TO MEET YOU!" The extended family was really nice. The whole Chusok holiday seemed kind of anticlimactic. There had been a lot of build up about the holiday, so I was kind of expecting something really crazy. But it was relaxed. No pressure to be uber polite and formal to the family, no crazy ceremonies... just a nice time.

Sunday morning we got up a little early and did the jesa ceremony, bowing and laying food out to your ancestors. The men went first and then the women bowed. I talked to some of the teachers at school, and it seems like the traditional aspect of male-dominated korean society comes out at chusok. The women work all day saturday making food, while the men lounge around see their friends.

It was raining Sunday morning, so we didn't go see the family's tombs (a Chusok tradition), and instead the young uncles my age and the little kids and I went to see a movie! It was in Korean so I couldn't really understand it. On Monday I did get to go see some traditional Korean tombs. I will post pictures later today. My host family also took my around to some other cities, Nonsan and Buryeo, to see some Korean culture. My host sister didn't come because she spent all day studying (she's only 13!) and my host brother was in one of his not talking moods, but it was good bonding time with the host mom and dad.

In conclusion, a nice relaxing weekend...

More posts coming soon

I'll try to post a little more frequently in the future. I seem to always realize almost a week has gone by since my last post. Time is kind of flying here.

I wasn't go into school last Friday because I didn't have to teach any classes. But at 9am my co-teacher called. The principal wanted to give me a gift for Chusok. Sure, I'd be able to come to school I said. I talked to my host mother, and she gave me two handkerchiefs to give to the principal and vice-principal as Chusok gifts. So I went in, and the principal gave me a gift (socks!) and then asked me if I was still feeling sick. Ohhhhh I thought, maybe my coteacher told him I was sick and that's why I wasn't in school... I thought she said the schedule change was okay. Interesting...

Later on Friday I found some basketball courts in Daejon where I think there are pickup games. Kind of far from my homestay (almost an hour by bus!) but I need to play.

No class tomorrow!

Something lucky happened to me. On Tuesday when I got to school my coteacher handed me the day's schedule of classes. I have been dealing with a "temporary" schedule since I started, but most of the classes fell on the same day, just during different periods. But Tuesday's schedule had me teaching a class I had taught the day before. I asked my coteacher where the schedule came from and how I was teaching the same class... As usual, when we really need to communicate about something it was tough, but after a while she said "maybe (she starts out a lot of sentences with maybe) this schedule isn't good for you, maybe you can pick your own schedule."

By maybe, she meant Yes, go ahead, pick your own schedule. Music to my ears. Since I rotate around to the other 5 English teachers' classes and teach with a heavy emphasis on speaking, I guess it really doesn't matter when exactly I teach, as long as I hit each class. It was a little tricky, but I managed to make the schedule so that I now have every other Friday off!

Tomorrow I'll go into Daejon. I need to get out a little bit and explore a big city. I need to find somewhere to play basketball... When my host family heard I was planning to take the bus alone to Daejon tomorrow and explore the city, they got worried. All of a sudden my host mom needs to go shopping in the morning in Daejon.

This weekend is the Korean holiday Chusok. It's translated to mean Thanksgiving, but I don't think it's much like American Thanksgiving. I can eat like it's Thanksgiving every night with the amount of good food my host mom makes me. Chusok is one of the most important holidays, and I'll be spending it with my host family. Their extended family will come to Gyeryong to visit us, and what we'll do for three days and three nights I don't know yet. I'm sure I'll be expected to drink with the relatives and entertain the kids, two things I can do well. I'm excited to see what'll happen, but I won't hold my breath for turkey.

Cheonan and Gongju

Weekend update: Last Saturday morning I left for Cheonan. I met my Tom and Hannah at a bus station in Cheonan. A different bus station than the one I arrived at, which created a little trouble. I got out of my bus station, and of course everything is in Korean. So I tried to take a taxi to their bus station. But the driver just pointed behind me, not at my bus station, but at one down the street. Why are there two different bus stations a hundred meters away from each seperated by a department store? I don't know, but I'm past being embarrassed when things like that happen, so I thought it was my lucky day I was so close.

Besides seeing Tom, who I haven't seen in more than a year, I got to several other ETAs too. That afternoon we hung out at a coffee shop, went to a mall, and did karaoke. For dinner we went to Karen's homestay and her homestay mom made a great meal. Then we went out to a bar and clubbing, which was fun because I haven't really done that in Gyeryong.

Sunday Tom and I slept in. Then we went our seperate ways at the bus station and I went to Gongju to see Sarah! She was waiting for me across from the bus station in a grass sports field! Apparently some actually do exist here. Almost any other field I've seen here has been dirt, and grass is usually off limits, so I'm a little jealous of her city. I got more stares in her city than I usually do... people are intrigued by what's different I guess (my skin and hair!) Sarah's homestay mom is a great cook and made a delicious dinner.

I think I made a good impression by bringing a gift. I've been getting into the gift giving that is such a big part of the Korean culture. Fruit is a really good gift because it's consumable, more expensive than in the US, and a nice gesture. So Sarah's homestay family got some grapes. I also got some grapes on the way home for my homestay family. Apparently ETA's have ended up on the homestay family's bad side for not thinking of their homestay family (by bringing home a gift) when they go away for the weekend. My family is very relaxed, but I'm playing it safe. And I just end up eating most of the grapes anyway.

Tom and I enjoy a french fry

Girls, ice cream, and animal costumes. Hard to imagine a better time

Jimin and I singing karaoke; Liezl entertained

Sarah and I under a balloon arch. Thank you clothing sale

Are you hungry for dreams too?

How do you pronounce progress...

This week I started my third lesson. It was a 'Hi how are you?' lesson because all the kids ever say is 'fine thank you.' It wasn't supposed to be too hard and was supposed to be a chance for most to practice their english. But, some low level students don't have that much english under their belt no matter where their class is in the textbook. So... some classes were interesting. For the first grade students, it was their turn to work on pronunciation. You would love to see me teaching them. Some things I've now said twenty times and will say another ten times next week:
"Okay class, make the L sound with me - la la la la la la la"
As I walk around to each student "say Lock Rock"

Tomorrow I'm off to Cheonan and Cheongju to see my friend Tom from the Explo days. It will be a good time. Today I went into Daejon on the bus for the first time. Basically I just found the bus terminal I'll go to tomorrow.

In other news, Gyeryong really isn't that small. When I first heard I was coming here, I was worried. But I think I was misinformed. Gyeryong is not "out in the boonies." It has 100+ small restaurants, at least 30 high rise apartment buildings, golf courses, a bowling alley, and some bars. Tonight I went out with my friend Baum Sheik (my host brother's tutor) and it was a really good time. He thinks next time we play basketball he'll win (Last time I let him get out to an 8-3 lead before I started really trying and then won the game). When I came back home, I thought I would be able to go to bed. But when I came in the door, my host parents were entertaining some guests. So I had to drink some more.

Tonight at dinner my host sister asked me what I thought of Japan. I've encountered many people who say they "hate Japan" or "hate Japanese" people. This bugs me, since Korean is already really homogeneous, and needs to embrace diversity instead of perpetuate stereotypes. So even though my host sister doesn't speak a ton on English, I had a little discussion about the past, governments, prejudices, and why she probably doesn't hate Japanese people but instead disagrees with some of Japan's government's actions. I don't know if I reached her, but I have a whole year to make sure she doesn't hate the Japanese just because one of her elementary school teachers said bad things about the Japanses. If it's one thing the world doesn't need it's another small up an coming nation with a racial chip on its shoulder.

If I was in America, I don't know what I would say about Katrina. So I won't start. The NFL started tonight, it's 40th season. The Patriots have a chance to try to win 3 super bowls in a row, and started off okay with a win against the Raiders tonight. If only life was as simple as football plays X's and O's.

Big news

I got my cell phone! Fulbright made us get cell phones, but I probably would have bought one anyway, since it's hard to live in South Korea without one. Mine has an MP3 player and camera, but I don't really know how to use either. Not only is it my first cell phone but all the menu's are in Korean. My host sister has been teaching me a few things every night.

Weekend trip to Seoul

My coteacher helped me buy a ticket to get to Seoul this last weekend. She didn't recommend the bus or the high speed train, so I went on the regular train. Assigned seats, just like the movie theaters. She's done so much for me because I can't speak Korean, and at the same time has more responsibility in school because she was put in charge of the first grade teachers. Rides home from school, trying to find me Korean teachers, it's been really nice. The train ride to Seoul was about 2 hours, and I met Annie in the English bookstore.

Annie and I had dinner at a small Korean restaurant that I thought would be good. At a lot of Korean restaurants the meat is cooked right at your table on a small gas stove. This restaurant had those grills, so I thought, sure, they'll have sangiapsal (grilled pieces of pork that you wrap in lettuce with vegetables). One thing about a lot of meat in Korea is that it's a lot fattier than the meat I'm used to in the States. So the waitress put two kinds of meat on the stove and cooked it. One was a really good, lean beef kind of meat. The other was pretty much pieces of fat. Annie said the waitress gave us an unhappy look when we asked to pay without having eaten most of the fat. Sorry!

On Saturday I saw my first Korean movie (the name of the movie is translated to mean "A bittersweet life." The Korean movie was a lot bloodier, and its themes (like loneliness, love, despair, life philosophy) were more poignant than the typical American action movie. American movies usually have a guy gets the girl theme, this Korean one did not. Both movies have the seemingly bulletproof hero and the never emptying gun clips.

We also went to a palace, where we randomly ran into fellow ETAs Jen and Evan. Pretty random, and also funny because I think both pairs had the question, "so... are you two a couple?" But neither of us asked.

We also went to Itaewon, the foreigner district, which was kind of nutty, and the war memorial museum. The war museum was about the Korean military's history, not just the Korean war. The fountain monument was very cool. The museum part was somewhat interesting, but didn't go into real detail about anything the way military history books do. It didn't exactly glorify war, but there weren't many negative parts to the museum. Maybe because military service is mandatory for men in South Korea?

It was nice to get away. Next weekend I want to visit my friend Tom in Cheongju, but I think I might spend friday night with my host family because I think they missed me this weekend. Happy labor day America...